Adult male milk frogs can reach 2.5 inches in length. Females can reach up to 4 inches. These frogs are diurnal and rather large. Unique coloration with very distinct eyes. Comical and entertaining personality types.
-Avoid touching/ handling your frog. Frogs are fragile and sensitive to chemicals/ oils on your skin. Although not toxic to humans, frogs carry bacteria.
-Avoid placing it near sunlight or near sources of heat or cold. Do not place frogs near windows, air vents or sources of heat or cold.
-You will essentially maintain a vivarium which is an ecosystem that has flora (plants) and micro fauna. (Plants and beneficial insects).
-You will need to secure a stable source of feeder insects such as Dubia roaches or crickets.
Food:
Insectivorous: Feed Dubia Roaches, Crickets, silkworms, earthworms, occasional hornworm, being rotated into the diet regularly.. These can make up a large portion of the diet, with other foods like flies and cut earthworms being rotated into the diet regularly. Fruit flies/small or pinhead crickets can also be fed to very young frogs. For size reference: Insect size no larger than the width between the frogs eyes. Feed juveniles daily and adults 3 days per week, with 3-10 food items per frog each feeding. Monitor weight and adjust feeding accordingly. Use Repashy Calcium Plus daily. Vitamin A and a Carotenoid weekly.
Environment:
Your frog vivarium will need to maintain a tropical environment. Milk Frog Temperature and Humidity. 24” to 36” tall enclosures. These frogs get big (4”). Avoid placement near windows (drafts, temperature variances, sunlight over heating). Allow an area of the enclosure to reach 80°F during the day, with other cooler parts of the enclosure staying around 70-75°F. At night the temperature can fall to 65°F. Incandescent basking/ health light bulbs on thermostat control can be used for heating if needed. Humidity levels between 60-85% are ideal.
Water:
Mist the vivarium daily to maintain humidity. Use RO/ reverse-osmosis water, distilled or spring that has been reconstituted minerals and trace elements back into water. Look at Sea-Chem’s “Replenish” remineralizing product. Provide a water bowl. Clean daily. Humidity is maintained by the enclosed vivarium and misting with pure water (not tap) several times a day. RO or distilled water, some spring water is acceptable. ?? Key. Consider an automated misting system as this is vital. A water dish is needed and it needs to be cleaned daily. Enclosing the top of the vivarium with glass instead of a screen.
Do allow for ventilation protected against frog escapes. Add live tropical plants and clean up insects such as isopods and springtails to help clean the vivarium. 10 gallons per frog of vivarium space is recommended. Ensure the top is free of any gaps that frogs can escape from. LED lights for plants. Other lights produce heat which can be hazardous.
Lighting:
Low rated tropical UVB bulb: 2.0 or 5.0 Low wattage heat emitter for night on thermostat control to keep temps over 65F, cut heat once base temperature met. Daytime low wattage basking lamp to keep one region in the upper 70s low 80s. Note, hot conditions can be fatal. Keep temps no greater than low 80s. Do not use high wattage heat lamps.
Bringing home:
So if you ever had aquarium fish, you are aware not to just toss the newcomers into your aquarium. Same thing holds true for frogs. Your new frog may have issues that you need to identify and resolve before introducing into their final vivarium. When you bring home your new frog, it is important to quarantine them. Minimum quarantine time would be a week. You will want to observe your frog closely. Inspect it for any visual problems. -Movement issues (walking or coordination issues) -Sores -Eating problems. If your frog has sores, lesions, wounds, bloated you will want to treat accordingly and only place it with other frogs after it has recovered. If your frog is not eating, you will want to observe it for problems. Does your frog seem to have a lack of interest in eating? It may be stressed or ill. Does your frog have difficulty catching flies with its tongue? (STS) Sticky tongue Syndrome is usually associated with a Vitamin A deficiency. Read more about vitamins and supplementation on www.DartFrog.pet. Isolate and quarantine your frogs if they have health issues to prevent other frogs getting those illnesses, bacterial infections, fungal infections or parasites. When in isolation your new frog will be better able to eat without competition from other frogs. A sick frog will not be able to eat as aggressively as a healthy frog which will lead to its quick demise. A quarantine enclosure can be as simple as a closed plastic shoe box container that is lined with moistened sphagnum moss and leaf litter. It is best to cover 3 of the 4 sides of an enclosure so that they are less distracted by motion or lights around them which may add to stress and stress related problems. Seek medical assistance for any such health issue. Once your frog is eating successfully you can consider adding to its new larger vivarium.
Avoid cohabitation: Milk frogs can outcompete other organisms. Milk frogs produce a toxic substance than may harm other animals. As always minimize contact with frogs to "as needed" only. Always use gloves. Always wash hands after contacting pets. Frogs can absorb chemicals and airborne substances. Avoid using any chemicals around frogs.